The History of the Safety Razor
The safety razor was invented to make shaving easier. Then the industry made it more complicated and more expensive for a century. The original design is still the best shave per dollar available.
Before the safety razor
For most of human history, shaving meant a straight razor: a single blade of hardened steel, honed to a fine edge, held flat against the skin by a steady hand. A good straight razor shave is still the closest shave possible. It is also a skill that takes weeks to develop and a blade that takes minutes to maintain. The safety razor was invented not because straight razors were bad, but because most people do not have the time or patience to master them.
The Gillette revolution
King Camp Gillette patented the double-edge safety razor in 1904. The concept was simple: a thin, disposable blade clamped between a protective head that controlled the blade angle and exposure. The user did not need to hone, strop, or maintain the blade. When it dulled, they replaced it. Gillette gave away the razor handles and sold the blades. It was one of the first razor-and-blade business models in consumer products, and it worked because the shave was genuinely good.
The golden age
From the 1930s through the 1960s, the double-edge safety razor was the standard grooming tool for men worldwide. Companies like Gillette, Schick, and Merkur produced razors in dozens of designs: adjustable, butterfly-open, three-piece, and twist-to-open. The blades were stamped from thin stainless or carbon steel and cost pennies each. A year's supply of blades cost less than a single modern cartridge refill pack costs today. The shave quality was excellent because the geometry was right: a single, sharp edge at a fixed angle.
The cartridge era
In 1971, Gillette introduced the Trac II, the first twin-blade cartridge razor. The marketing pitch was that two blades gave a closer shave than one. Three blades followed. Then four. Then five. Each generation added blades, added a pivot head, added a lubricating strip, and added cost. A five-blade cartridge refill costs three to six dollars per cartridge. The shave is not five times better than a single double-edge blade. It is arguably worse: multiple blades increase irritation, ingrown hairs, and razor burn, especially on sensitive skin.
The return
The double-edge safety razor has been experiencing a revival since the mid-2000s. The math is compelling: a quality safety razor handle costs twenty to fifty dollars and lasts a lifetime. A pack of 100 double-edge blades costs eight to fifteen dollars and lasts a year or more of daily shaving. The annual cost of safety razor shaving is under twenty dollars. The annual cost of cartridge shaving is over a hundred. The shave quality is equal or better. The waste is a fraction.
What to buy
For a first safety razor, a Merkur 34C or Edwin Jagger DE89 are the standard recommendations. Both are closed-comb designs with moderate blade exposure that forgive technique errors. For blades, buy a sample pack of five to ten brands (Astra, Feather, Personna, Derby, Voskhod) and try each one. Blade preference is personal and skin-dependent. Feather blades are the sharpest. Astra Superior Platinum are the most commonly recommended all-around blade. Use a proper shaving soap or cream, not canned foam. The soap matters as much as the blade.
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