How to Care for Leather Goods
Leather is skin. It was alive once and it still responds to moisture, oil, and care the same way skin does. Here is how to clean, condition, and protect leather goods so they last decades instead of years.
Understanding leather types
Full-grain leather uses the entire hide surface with no sanding or buffing. It develops the best patina and is the most durable. Top-grain leather has been lightly sanded to remove imperfections. It is smoother but less durable. Genuine leather (despite the name) is a lower grade, made from the inner layers of the hide. Bonded leather is ground-up leather fibers glued together: it is not leather in any meaningful sense.
Cleaning
Wipe leather with a damp cloth to remove surface dirt. For deeper cleaning, use saddle soap: work it into a lather with a damp sponge, wipe it across the leather, and buff dry with a clean cloth. Do not soak leather. Do not use household cleaners, alcohol, or solvents.
Conditioning
Leather dries out over time and cracks if not conditioned. Apply a thin layer of leather conditioner (neatsfoot oil for heavy leather, leather cream for dress goods) with a soft cloth. Work it into the leather in circular motions. Let it absorb for 15 to 30 minutes. Buff off the excess. Condition every 3 to 6 months depending on use and climate.
Waterproofing
Beeswax-based waterproofers (like Sno-Seal or Obenauf's) create a water-resistant barrier. Apply to clean, conditioned leather. Work the wax in with your fingers or a cloth. Heat with a hair dryer to help the wax penetrate. This darkens the leather and reduces breathability, so use it only on boots, bags, and outdoor gear.
Storage
Store leather in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Stuff bags and boots with paper to maintain shape. Use cedar shoe trees in leather shoes. Never store leather in plastic bags: leather needs to breathe.
Patina
Good leather develops a patina over time: a darkening and mellowing of the surface that is caused by oils from your hands, sunlight, and use. Patina is not damage. It is the leather aging beautifully. The better the leather, the better the patina.
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