How to Sharpen an Axe
A dull axe is more dangerous than a sharp one. It bounces off wood instead of biting in. Here is how to bring the edge back with a file, a puck, and a strop.
When to sharpen
If the axe bounces off wood instead of biting in, it is dull. If you can see light reflecting off the edge, it is dull. A sharp axe edge is invisible when viewed head-on. Run your thumb perpendicular across the edge (never along it). A sharp edge catches your thumbprint. A dull edge slides.
Tools you need
A 10-inch bastard mill file. A dual-grit axe puck (coarse and fine). A leather strop (optional, for a razor edge). A pair of heavy gloves. A vise or a way to secure the axe head.
Filing the edge
Secure the axe head in a vise or clamp it to a bench. Hold the file at the same angle as the existing bevel, typically 25 to 30 degrees. Push the file across the edge in long, even strokes from the poll to the toe. Lift the file on the return stroke: files only cut on the push. Count your strokes and do the same number on both sides. File until you can feel a slight burr on the opposite side of the edge.
Honing with a puck
Apply water or honing oil to the coarse side of the axe puck. Move the puck in small circles along the edge, maintaining the bevel angle. Work both sides evenly. Switch to the fine side and repeat. The goal is to remove the file marks and refine the edge.
Stropping for a razor edge
If you want a splitting axe or a carving hatchet to be truly sharp, strop the edge on leather loaded with honing compound. Pull the edge away from the leather (never into it) in long strokes. A stropped axe edge will shave hair.
Maintaining the edge
Touch up the edge with the fine side of the puck after every few hours of use. A 60-second touch-up prevents the need for a full resharpening session. Store the axe with a leather sheath over the edge. Never stick the edge into the ground or a stump.
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